Hermès, renowned for its bold and innovative approach to jewelry design, has unveiled its latest haute joaillerie collection, “Les jeux de l’ombre,” a poetic exploration of the interplay between shadow and light. Designed by Pierre Hardy, the creative director of the house’s jewelry division, this collection masterfully captures the elusive nature of shadows, transforming the immaterial into tangible, stunning pieces of art.
Capturing the Immaterial
The concept of shadow, often considered the opposite of matter and something that escapes our grasp, is at the heart of this collection. Pierre Hardy’s designs start with bold, audacious sketches that push the boundaries of conventional jewelry forms and lines. In this seventh haute joaillerie collection, Hardy has successfully encapsulated the ethereal quality of shadows, giving them surprising and unique shapes.
The Art of Shadow and Light
The collection features an array of pieces where shadows and light dance together in perfect harmony. Stones are enveloped in a black shadow, a soft form that overflows, accompanies, and protects them, thereby enhancing their brilliance. This effect is achieved using hand-polished jade with a satin finish or titanium set in rose gold, creating precious, shadowy jewels such as the rings, earrings, and the “Lueurs du jour” necklace.
Throughout the collection, light and shadow interact dynamically. In the “Miroir d’ombre” necklace, the shadow detaches from the stones, creating a striking visual effect where the shadow is no longer bound to the gemstones but instead plays a subtle, yet compelling role in the overall design. This delicate interplay of elements produces pieces that are not just visually stunning but also rich in symbolism.
Innovative Paving Techniques
A unique approach to stone setting brings these designs to life while remaining faithful to their original sketches. The “Chaîne d’ombre” necklace, for instance, features a juxtaposition of flat white diamonds complemented by gradients of black spinels and blue sapphires, giving volume to the iconic anchor chain link. Each stone in this piece is meticulously placed, requiring seven hundred hours of setting and nearly two thousand hours of goldsmithing.
Ingenious Mechanisms and Timeless Craftsmanship
Pierre Hardy’s creativity aligns with Hermès’ aesthetic of functional beauty, evident in the ingeniously engineered jewelry mechanisms. The “Couleurs du jour” necklace exemplifies this with its triptych design that opens and closes, either concealing its treasures or showcasing them in the light. This piece demonstrates the pinnacle of craftsmanship and creativity, blending form and function seamlessly.
Celebrating Raw Beauty
The collection also pays homage to the raw, uncut beauty of stones. Rings and earrings in the “Lumières brutes” line feature uncut stones chosen for their intense natural hues. By filtering light, these stones create stunning gradients that reflect their original splendor, celebrating the natural treasures of the earth.
A Tribute to Hermès’ Legacy
“Les jeux de l’ombre” is more than just a collection of jewelry; it is a testament to Hermès’ dedication to innovation, craftsmanship, and the poetic essence of design. Pierre Hardy’s visionary work transforms shadows into a source of beauty, creating pieces that are both modern and timeless. Each piece in this collection tells a story of light and dark, material and immaterial, capturing the true essence of Hermès’ haute joaillerie.